I never heard of fried green tomatoes until I was an adult.
But I was quite familiar with fried tomatoes of another sort.
Yes, I mean red tomatoes — specifically, sliced beefsteak tomatoes that are pan-fried lightly.
Growing up, I ate these in one place, prepared by only one person.
It was my grandfather’s specialty. Though my grandmother was the cook of the house, my grandfather had specialties that only he prepared: goulash, raw-beef sandwiches and fried red tomatoes.
My grandmother could make anything, so I’m not sure why he made these. But my grandfather — though not a picky eater — was particular about many things, and it’s possible that he felt that he had to make certain dishes to ensure that they came out to his satisfaction.
That’s a wild guess, and it may be wildly off the mark. Certainly, fried tomatoes are easy enough for any novice cook.
Red, ripe tomatoes are too delicate to be deep-fried. They would fall apart in a deep-fryer. Instead, they are cooked in a skillet where they can be handled gently.
Ripe tomatoes can be sautéed, in a minimum film of fat. But I follow my grandfather’s lead by using a bit more oil — enough to puddle in the pan, but not enough to drown the contents. Thus, the method becomes pan-frying.
These tomatoes were a breakfast dish at my grandfather’s house, and I think he generally cooked them in bacon grease that already was in the pan.
I tend to use a mixture of oil and butter: oil for its high-smoking point, and butter for its flavor.
The only other ingredients are tomatoes, flour, salt and pepper.
The most important thing about this dish is choosing the right tomato. As much as I love heirloom tomatoes, many of them are too juicy for pan-frying. Instead choose a solid tomato with firm flesh that won’t get mushy when it cooks. A hybrid such as Better Boy is actually ideal, though plenty of other varieties will work.
I also make sure that the tomato is not too ripe so that it holds its shape.
For the same reason, I slice the tomatoes fairly thick, ½ to ¾ inch. Anything thinner will tend to fall apart.
Even so, be warned that fried red tomatoes are soft; these are not the crispy disks like green tomatoes.
My grandfather would salt and pepper the tomatoes generously, then lower each side of each slice into a small pile of flour. For him, it was always flour. But I have since had success with cornmeal and a mixture of cornmeal and flour.
I heat the oil over medium heat. If it’s any hotter, the tomatoes tend to burn. Once the oil is hot, I add a small amount of butter. The butter raises the risk of burning, but it also adds flavor.
As soon as the butter melts, I add as many slices of flour-dusted tomatoes as will comfortably fit in the pan. As with any frying, you don’t want to crowd the pan.
Then I cook them just a couple of minutes on each side, until golden. Really, the less cooking the better. You want them warm and flavored with fat more than actually cooked.
As I said, my grandfather cooked these for breakfast. I mostly remember them with fried eggs — the beautifully golden-orange yolk running around the red rims of the tomato slices.
And the tomatoes conveniently cook in about the same time it takes to make toast and fry the eggs.
I don’t think my grandfather ever ate grits, which is a shame because these tomatoes and grits make a fine combination.
Really, fried red tomatoes make a great side dish for any meal.
Later this year, I will cook my share of fried green tomatoes — when fall and the first frost are approaching and we have plenty of tomatoes that will never ripen on the vine.
For now, though, I’ll stick with red and remember my grandfather with every bite.
Fried Red Tomatoes
Makes 2 servings
3 tablespoons bacon grease or 2 tablespoons olive oil plus 1 tablespoon butter
2 firm ripe tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
All-purpose flour
1. Heat the 3 tablespoons bacon grease or 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Meanwhile, core the tomatoes and slice them ½- to ¾-inch thick. Generously season the tomatoes with salt and pepper. Place about ½ cup flour on a plate.
2. If using oil, add the butter once the oil is hot. Working quickly, take a slice of tomato and press one side, then the other into the flour. Press each side twice with gentle but firm pressure. The coating should be thin; dust off any excess if necessary. Place slice in pan, then still working quickly, coat the remaining slices and put them in the pan. Cook just until golden, about 2 minutes, then flip and cook until golden on other side, about 2 minutes more. Drain briefly on paper towels, then serve immediately.