Even if you join a commercial expedition, you can’t count on anyone in a dangerous situation. It’s very healthy to take control of your own gear, oxygen and climbing decisions. To turn around allows for new attempts. It’s wiser to fail than to die.
We turned around for 3 years on Everest. Surprisingly many excellent Everest climbers have done the same. To try 3, 4 or even 5 times is more common then you would imagine. And wise if the situation calls for it.
In fact, the more inexperienced the climbers, the more often will they summit on their first attempt. It’s chance-taking due to unawareness of the dangers and of course it's very hazardous. You might get away once or twice with it, but it’s nothing for the long-term climber. Messners summit ratio in the Himalayas was 1:3.
Even if you join a commercial expedition, you can’t count on anyone in a dangerous situation. It’s very healthy to take control of your own gear, oxygen and climbing decisions. To turn around allows for new attempts. It’s wiser to fail than to die.We turned around for 3 years on Everest. Surprisingly many excellent Everest climbers have done the same. To try 3, 4 or even 5 times is more common then you would imagine. And wise if the situation calls for it.In fact, the more inexperienced the climbers, the more often will they summit on their first attempt. It’s chance-taking due to unawareness of the dangers and of course it's very hazardous. You might get away once or twice with it, but it’s nothing for the long-term climber. Messners summit ratio in the Himalayas was 1:3.
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