Gizzard shad fry
Shinko is the honorary title for the young of the gizzard shad. Early in July a small supply of shinko becomes available, sending a delicious frisson through the world of Edo-mae sushi as the capital’s sushi shops scramble to acquire the little fish in a battle of persistence, pride, and vanity, as if actually relishing the sky-high prices. For the first ten days or so after this first shipment, prices for the shad soar to about sixty times the usual level. Achieving just the right degree of saltiness is tricky, with the vinegar marinade another defining quality. This obsession with acquiring the first of the season regardless of price or effort reflects an enduring love for Edo-mae sushi tradition, with its Edo period sense of fun.