Junya Watanabe was in conceptual mode for spring: i.e., seeing women not as fashion consumers, but as walking canvases for a jolly geometry exercise. His series of collages of flat, circular pleather cutouts placed on gauze, shown on models with plastic cloche-like headdresses, triggered vague reminiscences of 1920s experimental art—Sonia Delaunay, maybe. Or was he was thinking more of the eighties, when his Japanese compatriots—his boss, Rei Kawakubo, chief among them—broke away from the body and claimed the freedom to use clothes as a medium that could talk about things other than sexiness and selling