Awa Odori takes place during the Buddhist observance of O-bon, when the spirits of the dead are thought to return to their ancestral homes. In Tokushima the departed are welcomed back with a performance of the Dance of the Fools, which dates back more than 400 years.
In 1587 a feudal overlord decided to throw a party to celebrate the completion of his new castle. His guests got so drunk that they began to dance, arms and legs flailing about all over the place. Once they had recovered from their hangovers it was decided to make it an annual event. The feudal government of the time, afraid that the gatherings could easily turn into a mob that would try and oust them from power, imposed restrictions on Awa Odori. Yet their legislation was unable to subdue the joyous spirit of the people, and the tradition lived on.
In Tokushima City, most of the action happens along the city’s main drag. Over the four days of the festival around 990 different community dance groups known as ren put on dance displays between about 6pm and 9pm. Dressed in yukata (cotton summer kimonos), participants form an arm waving, feet shuffling procession, playing traditional musical instruments as they go. After the official presentations everyone is welcome to join in the dancing. Stalls and fairs line both sides of the Shinmachi River the parties rage well into the night, particularly on the last day of the festival.