With this collection, Kors had been thinking about the likes of the casually, yet elegantly attired society swans in photographer Claiborne Swanson Franks’s book American Beauty, and a recently published tome dedicated to the style of Gary Cooper. That took him on the trail to a look that is cozy-log-cabin-in-the-Adirondacks chic, as inhabited by a thirties Broadway showgirl. There were huge belted furs, sleeveless peacoats, masculine red-and-black blanket-plaid greatcoats, variously worn over chunky cable-knit sweaters (next fall, if it looks hand-knitted, it looks right), long, lean skirts in mohair-dusted lace, black biker/ski pants (one of the rare examples of leather trousers actually working this week), and lace slips and slippery bias-cut satin dresses (this is where the Broadway gal comes in).