We rise on a great south pacific wave,and there it is: a spinner dolphin within arm's reach of my perch at the front of the speedboat. And it's not alone. Thirty or more of the creatures are darting and leaping in front of me now, each one seeming to return my grin as we head for the wild western side of Tetepare. Beyond us stretch 1,600 kilometres of ocean - all the way to Australia's Queensland coast. But for now, I'm aware of this, mesmerised instead by the silvery flash of the dolphins as they pilot us toward shore.