We cross the Umikawa and Himekawa Rivers where they run into the sea. Basho called this region "the most perilous place in the north." Today there's a road, of course, high up along the steep cliffes with concrete supports and win netting to keep the rocks from crashing down But the names of the passes retain their old warnings, such as koma gaeshi, which means "send back your horses." What happened here Basically, about 800 vears ago a woman tried to flee from a powerful official with her small child along the cliffs. Crashing waves threw them into the sea. Someone observed this and reported that at one terrible moment the currents tore the woman from her child, and suddenly they were pulled in opposite directions, then drowned. It is the saddest place I've ever been.