LOCATION
Discreetly tucked away at the end of a single-track road that runs along the leafy north side of the lovely Loch Awe, about 80 miles from Glasgow and 20 miles from Oban.
CHARACTER
The stern expression of the Scottish Baronial exterior belies the playfulness inside, where the sumptuous décor suggests a collaboration between Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and Edgar Allan Poe in a style best described as designer Gothic. Subtle it isn't, but the atmosphere is still welcoming and relaxed. The hotel's style and romantic setting have made it a popular wedding and honeymoon destination.
ROOMS
Gloriously comfortable and opulently furnished from the owner's own collection of antiques. The best of the rooms offer pretty views across the island-studded loch. The bathrooms are wonderfully well fitted, although probably not the place to be gutting the day's catch. As a dramatic alternative, the hotel's boat shed has been converted into a one-bedroom suite.
FOOD
The Highlands' dismal culinary reputation is well-deserved, but the Ardanaiseig is in the vanguard of a handful of establishments looking to turn it around. The presentation can be a touch too fussy and I found the service a little too stifling, but there's no doubting the quality of the food or the imagination behind its preparation.
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WE LIKE
The waterside location is perfect for angling dreamers. Loch Awe is the third-largest freshwater loch in Scotland, and the most esteemed of all the country's big waters as a fishing venue. The British record brown trout came out of the loch, tipping the scales at over 31lb.
NOT SO KEEN
Local anglers suggest that the quality of the fishing has declined in recent years, largely thanks to trout escapees from a fish farm on the loch.
ESSENTIALS
01866 833333; www.ardanaiseig.com; doubles from £116. Piscatorial paradise