Ultimately the apparel industry will have to offer fewer choices, Locke says. That’s anathema to retailers, who say they’re only responding to consumer demand. Scott Nova, the Worker Rights Consortium’s executive director, doesn’t buy the idea that consumers are hooked on fast fashion. “It’s an expectation retailers have created,” he says. “Consumers weren’t demanding that 20 years ago. Retailers need to step back from this absurd approach of changing styles every 15 minutes if factories are going to be minimally safe.”