Possibly Bangkok's most recognisable landmark, the Golden Mount of Wat Saket has glistened above the historic Banglamphu area for nearly two centuries. The temple's intriguing (if somewhat horrifying) history, peaceful atmosphere and impressive panoramic views make it one of Bangkok's top attractions.
First established during the Ayutthaya period in the 1600s as "Wat Sakae", the temple once covered a vast area that included the city's central charnel grounds. The surrounding neighbourhood is still known as "Ghost Gate" thanks to the countless corpses that were cremated here. The gory process involved feeding body parts to a swarm of vultures that were long a fixture at Wat Saket. All of this was undertaken by an undertaker who received payment by way of a coin deposited by family members in each dead person's mouth. It's said that the undertaker would pluck out the coin and quickly place it in his own mouth for safekeeping.
But the charnel grounds were only one aspect of a temple that would have served as community centre, school and more. It's said that the powerful military commander, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, who would later become King Rama I (founder of the still reigning Chakri Dynasty and one of Thailand’s most important historical figures), used the temple grounds as a place to rejuvenate between his military pursuits during the late 1700s. The Thai words, sa and ket, refer to “shower” and “hair”, so Wat Saket got its name due to the king-to-be cleansing himself here, both physically and spiritually.
Though the old charnel grounds have long been covered over by shophouses, Wat Saket remains a sprawling temple complex that also includes a cavernous ordination hall and many other smaller buildings, shrines, stupas and alleys. The temple has long been a centre of local and national Buddhist activity, and the temple is as alive today as it has ever been. On important Buddhist holidays, thousands of monks and members of the lay community take part in a candlelight procession that streams from the main hall to the top of the Golden Mount and continues late into the night with chanting, parades and food.
As with all functioning temples or sacred places of any religion, it’s important to be respectful of local culture by acting and dressing appropriatelywhile visiting Wat Saket