The most versatile kind of soufflé base is thickened with cooked starch in the form of stock preparations like pastry cream or béchamel sauce, or a panade (like pastry cream, but without sugar and including butter) or bouillie (p. 99). The standard consistency of a starchy base is that of a medium-thick sauce, and produces a moist, fairly light soufflé. Double the flour and you get a drier, denser soufflé that is robust enough to be unmolded, placed in a dish with a hot sauce, and raised again in the oven or under the broiler (Escoffier’s soufflé à la suissesse). Triple the flour and you get a so-called “pudding soufflé”—with the bready texture you would expect from the name—that won’t fall no matter what you do to it. (Increase the flour 15-fold and you have a sponge cake.)