The Dramatic Design of Driftwood (F

The Dramatic Design of Driftwood (FULL)
Author: Mike Tuccinardi

Photographer: Mike Tuccinardi
Over the past 50 years, much has changed in aquarist culture when it comes to developing an aquarium’s milieu. The art of decorating the inside of our home aquariums has evolved considerably, reflecting not only personal taste, but current trends and cultural backgrounds as well. Recently, the predominant trend has been toward creating a more natural look, as aquarium owners seek to capture a little slice of nature in their living rooms. This shift has brought about an enormous interest in natural décor—in particular, with something common to many freshwater habitats worldwide: driftwood.
Unlike artificial plants, resin ornaments, or natural stone, real driftwood can present a number of challenges to the aquarist. However, when done well, a driftwood-dominated aquascape is one of the best ways to create a natural habitat for fish, while also providing an awe-inspiring display for the home.

One of the most interesting properties of driftwood is that its benefits in the aquarium extend beyond mere decoration. It can serve many useful functions, including water conditioning; acting as a substrate for biofilm, algae, and mosses; and providing a source of food for a number of fish. In this regard, it is almost like a living thing that will change over time while interacting with your tank’s water, filtration, and inhabitants.

In this article, I’ll be looking at various types of commercially available driftwood and their relative benefits, as well as providing some insight on utilizing them in the aquarium.

Driftwood Requirements
Although it may seem obvious, it is important to note that aquarium keepers—and the general public—often have a very different concept of what driftwood is. In its broader use, the term tends to refer to the heavily weathered and eroded pieces of dead wood (ranging from small branches to entire trees) that wash up on shorelines from time to time. Steeped in salts and generally floating, this wood has no place in a freshwater aquarium.

When aquarists talk about driftwood, we are generally referring to minimally weathered, branching pieces of hardwood with very specific qualities that render them safe for use in our home tanks. Often, this wood doesn’t even originate from an aquatic environment—and never from saline or brackish water areas. These important criteria, which are detailed below, largely determine how useful or desirable the various commercially available types of driftwood are.

NONTOXIC
Driftwood must be nontoxic, which should be obvious. Wood is capable of leaching all kinds of chemical compounds into water. For example, many conifers produce copious amounts of sap, which can wreak havoc in an aquarium. Likewise, the bark of many trees contains compounds that can have a detrimental effect to your tank in a number of ways.

Proper preparation can help alleviate these issues, but it is very important to thoroughly research (and often, carefully test) any unknown wood before adding it to an aquarium. Of course, all of the commercially available driftwoods I’ll be discussing are nontoxic.

SINKING
Though it may also seem rather obvious, driftwood generally can’t be bobbing at the surface if it’s going to achieve its desired effect in the aquarium. Some woods perform much better than others, but there are a few fairly simple workarounds to get even stubbornly buoyant pieces to sink. How quickly it will sink—or if it submerges at all—is largely a function of its density.

INERT AND DURABLE
Perhaps less obvious than the prior two criteria, but equally as important, is the rate of decomposition. Driftwood is dead, organic matter. When placed in a warm, wet environment, it will begin to decompose. This is a natural process and can be a beneficial one, as it fosters the growth of a healthy community of microbes and, occasionally, multicellular organisms—which can be a great source of food for small fish and fry. But for aesthetic purposes, few of us would like to see the centerpiece of our tank fall apart over the course of just a few months.
Furthermore, any wood that will begin to rapidly decompose when first placed in the tank can trigger bacterial blooms, algae, and fungus growth. Therefore, it is best to seek out wood that will take years (not weeks) to break down, and won’t cause an organic explosion when first introduced.

Malaysian Driftwood
The majority of driftwood purchased for aquarium use is exported in large numbers from Malaysia and elsewhere in Southeast Asia. Durable, dense, generally sinking, and rich in texture and character, Malaysian driftwood is popular in the hobby for a reason. It also tends to be the most reasonably priced of the commercially available types, adding to its appeal.

This driftwood tends to be dark in color and comes in a variety of shapes, most commonly in small, stump-like pieces and root masses. It does not tend to occur in branching pieces, although you may occasionally come across a larger piece with these features.

In terms of aquarium use, it is one of the easiest to handle with regard to required preparation. Like all wood, it will leach a substantial amount of tannins into the water, staining it yellowish or almost tea-brown. If this is undesirable for aesthetic purposes, it must be soaked before placement in the aquarium to remove the bulk of its tannic acid.

I’ve found that heavy, dense pieces will leach tannins for much longer periods of time than more light or slender pieces. Generally, a week’s soak in warm water in a 5-gallon (19-liter) bucket will suffice (or a 30-gallon [114-liter] plastic trash barrel, if you’re soaking larger pieces). If possible, spend some time rinsing off the driftwood under hot water before soaking to remove any dirt or debris from the exterior. A coarse brush can be helpful for this task.

If the driftwood is causing discoloration in the water even after a thorough soak, a few water changes and the addition (or replacement) of activated carbon or other chemical filtration should do the trick.

African Root Wood
Also sometimes referred to as Mopani wood, African root wood is exported—as the name implies—from Africa, where it is harvested from the gnarled root masses of a few species of hardwood trees. One of its most distinctive features is that pieces tend to have a notable dual color scheme—the smooth exterior is a light tan, while the heavily textured interior surfaces are a dark mahogany. This contrast makes it especially eye-catching when used for aquascaping.

African root wood is very dense and often quite heavy. In terms of shape, it tends to look a lot like the roots of a tree, with many interesting whorls and knots. It’s not uncommon to find pieces that create natural caves, which many fish will appreciate. One downside, however, is that it tends to fill horizontal space as opposed to vertical, so it may not be the best choice for a tall aquarium. On a positive note, due to its density, this wood will generally sink immediately even without soaking.

Keep in mind that African root wood has a tendency to release a lot of tannins into the water and will continue doing so for some time. As of this writing, I’ve been watching a newly introduced piece turn a 15-gallon (57-liter) tank’s water tea-colored over the course of a few days. For my purposes, this is exactly what I wanted, but many aquarists (and some fish) prefer clearer water for their display tanks, which is perfectly understandable.

I recommend a thorough rinse in hot water before an extended soak of approximately one to three weeks. If at all possible, boiling can help speed up the tannin removal substantially.

It is not uncommon for African root wood to develop a certain amount of “fuzz” during the preparation process, which may continue even after being placed in the aquarium. This is largely harmless, although it can be unsightly. It is simply a result of opportunistic bacteria and fungi decomposing organic matter off the surface, which will dissipate on its own in time.

To expedite the process, rinse it under very hot water and thoroughly scrub it with a toothbrush or other coarse brush. This may need to be repeated a few times before the fuzz finally disappears.

Red Spider Wood
A relative newcomer to the aquarium driftwood scene, red spider wood (sometimes called Indian spider wood or rosewood) is fast becoming enormously popular among aquascapers. It is branchy, gnarly, colorful, and has undeniable character.

Spider wood varies widely in shape and overall form, from branches to stumps to mini trees. I’ve come across some genuinely bizarre-looking pieces that would delight any creative aquascaper. It tends to be on the larger side, and it is one of the most effective types of driftwood for scaping a very large aquarium.

Unfortunately, for all of its positive attributes, it does come with a few drawbacks. First and foremost, almost all spider wood will float when placed in water. It can take some time (up to a month for some “stubborn” pieces) to completely sink and will require some effort to do so.

I have found that the best method for soaking, sinking, and prepping spider wood is to use a 30-gallon (76-liter) plastic trash barrel filled with very hot water. With all the pieces being prepped placed inside, put a heavy, inert object (a paving stone or large piece of slate works well) on top of the stack so that it submerges and is held in place. A water change with hot water once or twice weekly over the course of two to four weeks will ensure the wood is thoroughly soaked and will sink when placed in the aquarium.

Alternatively, I have used a “shortcut” method that involves attaching the wood to a slate base. Use a masonry bit to drill a small hole into a sufficiently heavy piece of slate. Then, drill an appr

ผลลัพธ์ (ไทย) 1:

การออกแบบอย่างของ Driftwood (เต็ม)ผู้เขียน: ไมค์ Tuccinardiถ่ายภาพ: ไมค์ Tuccinardiกว่า 50 ปีที่ผ่านมา มากมีการเปลี่ยนแปลงในวัฒนธรรม aquarist เมื่อมันมาถึงการพัฒนาฤทธิ์ของพิพิธภัณฑ์สัตว์น้ำ ศิลปะการตกแต่งภายใน aquariums ที่บ้านของเรามีพัฒนามาก สะท้อนรสนิยมส่วนบุคคลเท่านั้นไม่ แนวโน้มปัจจุบันและภูมิหลังทางวัฒนธรรมเช่นกัน ล่าสุด แนวโน้มกันแล้วไปสร้างดูเป็นธรรมชาติมากขึ้น เป็นเจ้าของสัตว์พยายามจับชิ้นเล็ก ๆ ของธรรมชาติในห้องนั่งเล่น การเปลี่ยนแปลงนี้ส่งผลให้ความสนใจอย่างมากในธรรมชาติตกแต่ง — โดยเฉพาะ กับสิ่งที่เหมือนกันมากปลาอยู่อาศัยทั่วโลก: driftwoodซึ่งแตกต่างจากต้นไม้ประดิษฐ์ เครื่องประดับยาง หรือหินธรรมชาติ driftwood จริงสามารถแสดงจำนวนความท้าทายเพื่อการ aquarist อย่างไรก็ตาม เมื่อทำดี aquascape ที่ครอบงำ driftwood ได้หนึ่งในวิธีดีที่สุดเพื่อสร้างอยู่อาศัยตามธรรมชาติของปลา ในขณะที่ยัง ให้การแสดงผลมากสำหรับบ้าน หนึ่งในคุณสมบัติที่น่าสนใจของ driftwood เป็นที่เป็นประโยชน์ในการขยายเกินเพียงตกแต่ง สามารถใช้ฟังก์ชันประโยชน์หลาย รวมทั้งน้ำที่ปรับ ทำหน้าที่เป็นพื้นผิว สำหรับ biofilm สาหร่าย mosses และให้เป็นแหล่งอาหารสำหรับปลา ในการนี้ ได้เกือบเหมือนกับสิ่งมีชีวิตที่จะเปลี่ยนช่วงเวลาในขณะที่โต้ตอบกับคุณถังน้ำ เครื่องกรอง และคนในบทความนี้ ฉันจะได้ดูหลากหลาย driftwood ใช้ได้ในเชิงพาณิชย์และประโยชน์ญาติ ตลอดจนให้เข้าใจบางอย่างใช้พวกเขาในการความต้องการของ driftwoodแม้มันอาจดูเหมือนชัดเจน จำเป็นต้องทราบว่า สัตว์ใครที่ได้ — และประชาชนทั่วไปซึ่งมักจะมีแนวคิดที่แตกต่างกันมากของ driftwood อะไรเป็น ใช้ความกว้าง คำมีแนวโน้ม ถึงหนัก weathered และกัดเซาะส่วนไม้ตาย (ตั้งแต่สาขาขนาดเล็กทั้งต้น) ที่ล้างขึ้นบนชายฝั่งทะเลครั้ง ดองเกลือ และลอยทั่วไป ไม้นี้ได้ไม่มีที่ในพิพิธภัณฑ์สัตว์น้ำจืดเมื่อ aquarists พูด driftwood เรากำลังโดยทั่วไปอ้างถึงผ่า weathered สาขาชิ้นส่วนของไม้ด้วยคุณภาพที่เฉพาะเจาะจงมากที่ทำให้พวกเขาปลอดภัยสำหรับใช้ในถังบ้าน มักจะ ไม้นี้ไม่ได้มาจากสภาพแวดล้อมทางน้ำ — จากน้ำกร่อย หรือ saline พื้นที่ไม่ เกณฑ์สำคัญเหล่านี้ ซึ่งมีรายละเอียดด้านล่าง มีประโยชน์อย่างไร หรือต้องการใช้ได้ในเชิงพาณิชย์ต่าง ๆ driftwood ที่กำหนดส่วนใหญ่จะNONTOXICDriftwood ต้องพิษทั้ง ซึ่งควรจะชัดเจนขึ้น ไม้มีความสามารถในการละลายของสารเคมีทุกชนิดลงไปในน้ำ ตัวอย่าง conifers หลายผลิตจำนวน copious sap ซึ่งสามารถระบายความเสียหายในการ ในทำนองเดียวกัน เปลือกของต้นไม้ประกอบด้วยสารที่สามารถมีผลอนุถังของคุณหลายวิธี Proper preparation can help alleviate these issues, but it is very important to thoroughly research (and often, carefully test) any unknown wood before adding it to an aquarium. Of course, all of the commercially available driftwoods I’ll be discussing are nontoxic.SINKINGThough it may also seem rather obvious, driftwood generally can’t be bobbing at the surface if it’s going to achieve its desired effect in the aquarium. Some woods perform much better than others, but there are a few fairly simple workarounds to get even stubbornly buoyant pieces to sink. How quickly it will sink—or if it submerges at all—is largely a function of its density.INERT AND DURABLEPerhaps less obvious than the prior two criteria, but equally as important, is the rate of decomposition. Driftwood is dead, organic matter. When placed in a warm, wet environment, it will begin to decompose. This is a natural process and can be a beneficial one, as it fosters the growth of a healthy community of microbes and, occasionally, multicellular organisms—which can be a great source of food for small fish and fry. But for aesthetic purposes, few of us would like to see the centerpiece of our tank fall apart over the course of just a few months.Furthermore, any wood that will begin to rapidly decompose when first placed in the tank can trigger bacterial blooms, algae, and fungus growth. Therefore, it is best to seek out wood that will take years (not weeks) to break down, and won’t cause an organic explosion when first introduced.Malaysian DriftwoodThe majority of driftwood purchased for aquarium use is exported in large numbers from Malaysia and elsewhere in Southeast Asia. Durable, dense, generally sinking, and rich in texture and character, Malaysian driftwood is popular in the hobby for a reason. It also tends to be the most reasonably priced of the commercially available types, adding to its appeal.This driftwood tends to be dark in color and comes in a variety of shapes, most commonly in small, stump-like pieces and root masses. It does not tend to occur in branching pieces, although you may occasionally come across a larger piece with these features.In terms of aquarium use, it is one of the easiest to handle with regard to required preparation. Like all wood, it will leach a substantial amount of tannins into the water, staining it yellowish or almost tea-brown. If this is undesirable for aesthetic purposes, it must be soaked before placement in the aquarium to remove the bulk of its tannic acid.I’ve found that heavy, dense pieces will leach tannins for much longer periods of time than more light or slender pieces. Generally, a week’s soak in warm water in a 5-gallon (19-liter) bucket will suffice (or a 30-gallon [114-liter] plastic trash barrel, if you’re soaking larger pieces). If possible, spend some time rinsing off the driftwood under hot water before soaking to remove any dirt or debris from the exterior. A coarse brush can be helpful for this task.If the driftwood is causing discoloration in the water even after a thorough soak, a few water changes and the addition (or replacement) of activated carbon or other chemical filtration should do the trick.African Root WoodAlso sometimes referred to as Mopani wood, African root wood is exported—as the name implies—from Africa, where it is harvested from the gnarled root masses of a few species of hardwood trees. One of its most distinctive features is that pieces tend to have a notable dual color scheme—the smooth exterior is a light tan, while the heavily textured interior surfaces are a dark mahogany. This contrast makes it especially eye-catching when used for aquascaping.African root wood is very dense and often quite heavy. In terms of shape, it tends to look a lot like the roots of a tree, with many interesting whorls and knots. It’s not uncommon to find pieces that create natural caves, which many fish will appreciate. One downside, however, is that it tends to fill horizontal space as opposed to vertical, so it may not be the best choice for a tall aquarium. On a positive note, due to its density, this wood will generally sink immediately even without soaking.Keep in mind that African root wood has a tendency to release a lot of tannins into the water and will continue doing so for some time. As of this writing, I’ve been watching a newly introduced piece turn a 15-gallon (57-liter) tank’s water tea-colored over the course of a few days. For my purposes, this is exactly what I wanted, but many aquarists (and some fish) prefer clearer water for their display tanks, which is perfectly understandable.I recommend a thorough rinse in hot water before an extended soak of approximately one to three weeks. If at all possible, boiling can help speed up the tannin removal substantially.It is not uncommon for African root wood to develop a certain amount of “fuzz” during the preparation process, which may continue even after being placed in the aquarium. This is largely harmless, although it can be unsightly. It is simply a result of opportunistic bacteria and fungi decomposing organic matter off the surface, which will dissipate on its own in time. To expedite the process, rinse it under very hot water and thoroughly scrub it with a toothbrush or other coarse brush. This may need to be repeated a few times before the fuzz finally disappears.Red Spider WoodA relative newcomer to the aquarium driftwood scene, red spider wood (sometimes called Indian spider wood or rosewood) is fast becoming enormously popular among aquascapers. It is branchy, gnarly, colorful, and has undeniable character.Spider wood varies widely in shape and overall form, from branches to stumps to mini trees. I’ve come across some genuinely bizarre-looking pieces that would delight any creative aquascaper. It tends to be on the larger side, and it is one of the most effective types of driftwood for scaping a very large aquarium.Unfortunately, for all of its positive attributes, it does come with a few drawbacks. First and foremost, almost all spider wood will float when placed in water. It can take some time (up to a month for some “stubborn” pieces) to completely sink and will require some effort to do so.I have found that the best method for soaking, sinking, and prepping spider wood is to use a 30-gallon (76-liter) plastic trash barrel filled with very hot water. With all the pieces being prepped placed inside, put a heavy, inert object (a paving stone or large piece of slate works well) on top of the stack so that it submerges and is held in place. A water change with hot water once or twice weekly over the course of two to four weeks will ensure the wood is thoroughly soaked and will sink when placed in the aquarium.Alternatively, I have used a “shortcut” method that involves attaching the wood to a slate base. Use a masonry bit to drill a small hole into a sufficiently heavy piece of slate. Then, drill an appr

ผลลัพธ์ (ไทย) 3:

การออกแบบที่น่าทึ่งของไม้ ( เต็ม )
เขียน : ไมค์ tuccinardi

ช่างภาพ : ไมค์ tuccinardi
มากกว่าที่ผ่านมา 50 ปี มากมีการเปลี่ยนแปลงในวัฒนธรรม Aquarist เมื่อมันมาเพื่อพัฒนาสภาพแวดล้อมของตู้ปลา . ศิลปะของการผสมภายในตู้ปลาที่บ้านของเรามีการพัฒนาอย่างมาก สะท้อนให้เห็นถึงรสนิยมส่วนบุคคลไม่เพียง แต่ปัจจุบันแนวโน้มและพื้นหลังทางวัฒนธรรมได้เป็นอย่างดี เมื่อเร็วๆ นี้เทรนด์เด่นได้รับการต่อการดูเป็นธรรมชาติมากขึ้น ขณะที่เจ้าของพิพิธภัณฑ์สัตว์น้ำพยายามที่จะจับภาพเสี้ยวเล็กๆของธรรมชาติในห้องนั่งเล่นของพวกเขา การเปลี่ยนแปลงนี้มีความสนใจในธรรมชาติใหญ่หลวงผู้ครโดยเฉพาะเรื่องทั่วไปถิ่นน้ำจืดมากมายทั่วโลก : Driftwood .
ซึ่งแตกต่างจากพืชเทียมเครื่องประดับ เรซิน หรือหินธรรมชาติขอนไม้จริงสามารถนำเสนอความท้าทายให้ aquarist . อย่างไรก็ตาม เมื่อทำดี เป็นไม้เด่น aquascape เป็นหนึ่งในวิธีที่ดีที่สุดที่จะสร้างที่อยู่อาศัยตามธรรมชาติของปลา ในขณะที่ยัง ให้มีความกลัวเป็นแรงบันดาลใจแสดงในบ้าน

เป็นหนึ่งในคุณสมบัติที่น่าสนใจที่สุดของขอนไม้เป็นประโยชน์ในตู้ปลาขยายเกินกว่าเพียงการตกแต่งมันสามารถให้บริการฟังก์ชั่นที่มีประโยชน์มากมายรวมถึงน้ำปรับการแสดงเป็นสารตั้งต้นสำหรับฟิล์ม , สาหร่าย และตะไคร่น้ำ และให้เป็นแหล่งของอาหารสำหรับจำนวนของปลา ในการนี้ มันเป็นเหมือนสิ่งมีชีวิตที่เปลี่ยนแปลงตลอดเวลาในขณะที่การโต้ตอบกับรถถังของคุณน้ำ การกรองน้ำ และชาว .

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