Cara Delevingne smirking down the runway in an enormous fur hood carrying a tiny fur Karl Lagerfeld doll by a string with two prim fingers set the tone for the Fendi show. And it was all about fur. When used as an accent, it was wielded more like an applique than a trim. It was a collection full of strong shapes. While there may have been orchids, there were no wilting flowers here. The military inspiration was very literal with lots of structured coats and boxy silhouettes. More robe coats. Shapeless shifts with a foot or so of mesh at the hem to reveal the tops of white thigh-high boots. The different fabrics and furs all stitched together in one piece spoke to both the patchwork trend and a mixed-media aesthetic.
The more literal 20th Century military influences seemed to give way to an almost viking, Nordic military feel. Fur wraps fastened this way and that by big leather straps left one wondering if Lagerfeld is a Game of Thrones fan. The look circled back to modernity as coats began to reveal an almost aviator inspiration. Voluminous patchwork pieces had a rural, arts and crafts look that were