In the above order, put one ingredient after the other in a mortar and pound, until a smooth paste is formed (see picture).
Heat some oil in a wok and fry the paste. Add some water and stir again, then add the meat. Stir well, add some water and stir again, add sugar and fish sauce.
Cover the meat with water, and cover the wok with a lid. Let it cook for a while, and stir often. When the meat is already quite dry, stir constantly until all humidity is gone and the meat rolls in the wok. That’s where the name comes from. Taste, and add some more fish sauce and sugar if needed.
Add the long red, yellow and green chilies as well as the green pepper and the kaffir lime leaves and stir until all is well combined.