When Somtum Der opened in Bangkok in 2012, it was hailed as a return to genuine flavors by the local press. Northeastern Thai food is very different from the kingdom's Central cuisine: it uses more chili, less sugar, more herbs and a unique fish sauce called plaara. But even in Bangkok, these distinctive elements are often toned down for local palates. Not at Somtum Der.
"Having been born in Khon Kaen, I guess I was just frustrated with how Isan food tastes in Bangkok," says owner Thanaruek Laoraowirodge. "At Somtum Der, we really cook the way they do in Udon Thani or Khon Kaen, and I often source produce straight from my hometown.