Japanese halfbeak (sayori)
The flesh of sayori, best for eating between late autumn and early spring, is unexpectedly substantial for such a dainty fish. Firm and dense, it has a pleasant albeit subtle texture, and fishy odor, so was originally lightly cured with salt and vinegar before use. More recently it has become possible to obtain very fresh supplies of the species, and consuming sayori raw in sushi I snow the norm. Belying the fish’s sleek outward beauty and bracing flavor, its gut contains a black, highly odorous membrane. In earlier times, women who were pretty and well-proportioned but ‘black of heart’ were often likened to sayori.