By the twentieth century, the industries had become huge and well established, with growing international trade in raw materials such as cotton and in finished goods. The role of design became increasingly important as basic demand was satisfied and certain regions – for example, France and Italy – began to assume strong reputations for design. Branding became increasingly important in a world where mass communications began to make the telling of stories and the linking of images and other elements into advertising, which fuelled demand for clothing as much more than a basic necessity purchase.