Until the mid-2000s, nearby guerrilla activity rendered Caño Cristales almost completely inaccessible. But today, the Colombian military controls a 30km area around La Macarena, the dusty town that serves as the gateway to Caño Cristales, making the region open and safe for tourists. (It’s important to note: the area beyond the 30km safe zone is still designated a red zone by the Colombian government; they cannot guarantee anyone’s safety within it.) Reached by flights from either Bogotá or Villavicencio, the airport in La Macarena is so tiny, its luggage truck is pulled by a mule. Motorised boats then run from La Macarena along the Guayabero River, where bright red macaws and shiny, rust-coloured howler monkeys live along the banks. Letting travellers off at one of three different hiking trails, the rest of the journey to Caño Cristales is on foot. Tour companies are required; Eco Turismo Macarena is locally owned and one of the most experienced. (Filippo Manaresi/Getty)