Yes or no, it's how you make the past your own that counts. And in that regard, Costa did a good job here, splicing together narrow strips of needle-punched haircalf for short coats and patchworking together various shades of brown, black, and garnet leather for a slim, long one. These were expensive materials treated in costly ways, but the collection didn't feel precious. Ribbed-knit Lurex-shot dresses had frayed hems, and short leather shifts with geometric arrays of shiny silver studs were cut like T-shirts. They'll be a leggy kick to wear. The pieces that felt the most Calvin, though, were the finale dresses: Narrow tunic-like shapes made from tiny patches of calf hair linked together with chain, they struck a modern, minimalist chord