“When we first got there, around 1990, there was no refrigeration,” she says. “One farmer would slaughter a pig and a little bit would be given to everyone. They would render the fat and you would get a bit of fat. When that was gone, the next person would slaughter a pig. Now, however, the country has become more ‘civilized,’ people don’t share with their neighbors in the same way, and all that’s available now is hydrogenated lard in the grocery store. Things have changed there, and not for the good.”