Otto Künzli revolutionised the art of contemporary jewellery. While respecting its primary function as bodily adornment, Künzli throughout his 45-year career as a creator has consistently broken down its codes, questioned its materials and subverted its symbols. Behind the role of mentor so respected by his pupils lies a mischievous spirit with the audacity to push the boundaries. Thus, he transforms the references of our collective imagination (from the Swiss cross to Mickey Mouse), denounces the pretentions of jewellery («Gold makes us blind,» he says) and overturns the codes of everyday objects (picture frames are turned into necklaces) with his trademark humour and irony.
Set up in close cooperation with the artist, the retrospective is built around the major themes of his life’s work and his travels, both real and imagined. The United States and its obsession with the bottom line, Switzerland and its gold bars, the Australian bush, Japanese lacquer and vapour trails in the sky are leitmotivs that recur throughout the exhibition. In addition, one room is given over to his early work. In a departure from its usual practice, the mudac has decided to look beyond the works themselves, seeking out anecdotes or commentaries for each piece.
Otto Künzli was born in Zurich and now lives, works and teaches in Munich. It was there that, in spring 2013, Die Neue Sammlung - The International Design Museum mounted this retrospective, in association with the mudac, which will host it this summer. The exhibition will then move on to the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum.