The Bias Cut
Perhaps 1930s fashion is probably best known for its invention of the bias cut. This involved cutting the fabric at a 45 degree angle instead of along the straight grain and was introduced by Vionnet. This method allowed the fabric to hug the body naturally by giving horizontal stretch and thus emphasises a woman’s natural shape. The result was draped, sinuous and fluid evening dresses that created the flirtatious and sensuous look which epitomises for many, the iconic 1930s silhouette.
Combine the bias cut with the trend for backless and we are onto something quite daring and risqué, even by today’s standards. For the back was the new erogenous zone and was emphasised by plunging backlines or slashed backs and adorned with jewellery.
But the bias cut extended into day dresses as well and brought exquisitely detailed and intricate pattern cutting techniques. This then developed into irregular hems, tiers, layering and panels often in waves of printed chiffon. We see these in the surviving examples of 30s chiffon tea dresses that look surprisingly contemporary.