he Chao Lay restaurant in Hua Hin stands on a pier jutting out into the Gulf of Thailand. I have been going there pretty much since it opened over 25 years ago – it’s one of those places I will drive miles out of my way to visit – and I’m delighted to be able to share a version of its exceptional crab curry here. Its heat comes from the hot curry powder, while the eggy-creaminess of the sauce makes for a soothing and balanced counterpoint to the spice.