Sometimes a wine and food match is so harmonious it makes you wonder which part of the combination came first. When I sip a cool and grassy sancerre with a creamy, slightly gamey chavignol goat’s cheese, the flavours and textures interweave in such a complementary way, it’s hard to believe the match was simply stumbled upon. It’s easier to imagine that, after years of experimentation in some rickety shack in the Loire Valley, a gifted farmer came up with this style of sauvignon blanc purely to match it with the local cheese, or vice-versa.