felt relieved when the pick-up reached a clearing where there were a few buildings. I thought we’d made it, but it turns out we were only half-way to our destination. We needed to change pick-ups and pay another 50 THB each. This seemed a bit unfair until I considered how much damage these trips must do the pick-up trucks – it would be much worse if the same vehicle had to go all the way from the bottom to the top. The second-half of the journey was even more hair-raising than the first – especially when we needed to pass other vehicles coming in the opposite direction.