The main appeal of jelly, undoubtedly, is that it is neither one thing or another. Lying tantalisingly on the boundary between solid and liquid, trembling and wobbling while travelling from mould to plate to spoon to mouth, it transforms under the warmth and pressure of our tongue and palate, breaking up even as it glides past them, shedding its flavour and fragrance as it goes. Who couldn’t love such a fragile, yielding thing?