Even where cooking carts have moved on, their traces slick the pavements, their aroma hangs in the air. You can sense clouds of atomised chilli from a hundred paces, not least because it stings the eyes. Indeed, a hundred paces are the most you ned travel before encountering something more to eat. "Gin khao reu yang" (eaten rice yet?") is the original Thai "Hello" not the bland World War II invention, "sawatdee" Like Osakans greeting each other with "Earning money yet?" it sets the cultural priority. The implication being,