From the French words “Brilliant” (brilliant or sparkling) and “Brignolette” (a small dried plum). A Briolette is a pear shaped gemstone covered with facets that comes to a pointed end.
The approximate number of facets of a Briolette cut gemstone is 84. The more facets the drop has, the more brilliant it is.
The Briolette cut is a drop-shaped gemstone with triangular or diamond shaped facets all the way around. There is no table, crown or pavilion. Considering the shape of the Briolette, it is the most difficult to cut. Because of the specific number of cuts to show the facets, the Briolette cut requires perfection from top to bottom.
A cutter can only cut and polish 5-10 Briolette gemstones per day.
The Briolette is a type of Rose cut, which dates back to the 14th century or earlier. No one knows for certain how old the Briolette cut actually is. There are rumors of Diamonds cut in India during the 12th century exhibiting this style of cutting. The Briolette is a relatively rare Diamond cut and far more common for colored gemstones.
Briolette gems are found in antique and estate jewelry from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Briolette gems are increasing popular in fashion jewelry. Briolette cuts are set in earrings, necklaces and pendants. They are also included in tiaras in antique or estate jewelry.
They are often used for earrings with a hanging wire or a simple precious metal cap, sometimes with a small Diamond accent. Briolettes have been featured in many industry publications and also in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.
Most Diamond Briolettes are cut from white rough, but colored Diamond Briolettes, especially Fancy and Canary Yellows, are becoming more popular, followed by Cognacs and Champagnes. Again, it is very popular for colored gemstones.
Every Briolette is unique, so look for beauty. Look for well-cut gemstones that have lots of brilliance. But as odd cut ones can also display brilliance, it is ultimately up to the individual.