Ma-aji is in their prime from summer to early autumn. They were once treated with salt and vinegar to firm and made into sushi with skin on, but now being available very fresh, are generally skinned and used raw. An exquisite balance of freshness and deliberate aging adds a pleasant hint of texture to what is in fact quite a soft, adding a new dimension to tis enjoyment. The fat, which grows more succulent moving into the peak season, is smooth but flavorful. The new ginger and chives also used to guard against spoiling and odor add a vivid dash of color, their fragrance and zing serving to further showcase the wonderful flavor of ma-aji sushi.