Multiple Printers: About Paper There may be more than one printer connected to a computer. Because the color gamut database (pro- file) for each printer is different, your image-editing software must be told which printer’s profile to use. In Adobe Photoshop, a list of available profiles can be viewed by choosing Edit, Color Settings, Working Spaces, CMYK. Choose File, Color Settings, CMYK Setup, CMYK Model, ICC to select the printer profile (see Figure 20.17). Select the name of your printer and the type of paper that the printer is using (glossy or matte, for example). Paper makes a difference in how your prints look. Different brands of paper react differently to ink or dyes. Inkjet papers produce the greatest amount of variation because ink seeps into the paper in differ- ent degrees. In general, papers that absorb less ink produce more brilliantly saturated colors and deeper tones. This is why all photo-quality inkjet papers are coated with a moisture-resistant white substance. Glossy paper gives rich dark tones, just as glossy darkroom paper gives tones with greater depth. Ordinary copier paper produces muted colors and dull tones because the ink soaks in freely; it may even bleed through to the other side.
CHAPTER 20 COLOR THEORY 305
To work in CMYK mode select Image, Mode, CMYK Color. Editing in CMYK has certain advantages. Even if your computer doesn’t have a com- plete color management system, no out-of-gamut colors are shown on the monitor in CMYK mode. CMYK mode prohibits the moni- tor from displaying any color that the printer cannot reproduce.
FIGURE 20.17 CMYK Setup.
Choosing the wrong paper can reduce the effectiveness of color management sys- tems. At this time, most printer manufacturers supply color management data (pro- files) only for the papers they sell. If you print on another brand of paper the color management software may not have the data profile it needs to match the monitor and the printer.
306 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
The Absolute Minimum Digital cameras and computer monitors use the additive color process. Color film and inkjet printers use the subtractive color process, which relies on variations of cyan, magenta, and yellow inks. Follow these steps when working with color onscreen and in print: ■ Color negative film and slide film are sensitive to red, green, and blue light, but form their complement (cyan, magenta, yellow) during development. ■ You can save an adjustment layer as a settings file that can be loaded into other images when you are ready to print. This is a poor man’s color calibra- tion method. ■ Select View, Gamut Warning in Photoshop to see which colors in the image won’t print on your printer. You must have the correct printer profile installed to use this command successfully. ■ You can adjust gamut issues by desaturating areas that are out of the gamut. Choose Select, Color Range and then select the out-of-gamut colors.
21In this chapter • Direct Versus Diffused Light • Using Available Light • Using Artificial Light
Lighting
Lighting is the most important part of photography. Without light, you would not have an image. Variations of light create brightness and con- trast, and both create good images. Distinct combinations of light cre- ate the most interesting pictures.
An important characteristic of lighting is its degree of diffusion, which can range from contrasty and hard-edged to soft and evenly diffused. When people refer to the “quality” of light, they usually mean its degree of diffusion.
Direct light creates hard-edged, dark shadows (see Figure 21.1). It is specular: its rays are parallel (or nearly so), striking the subject from one direction. The smaller the light (relative to the size of the subject) or the farther the light is from the subject, the sharper and darker the shad- ows will be. The sharpest shadows are created by a point source, a light small enough or far enough away that its actual size is irrelevant.
A spotlight is one source of direct light. Its diameter is small, and it often has a built- in lens to focus the light even more directly. If you think of a performer on stage in a single spotlight, you can imagine an extreme case of direct light: the lit areas are very light, and the shadows are hard-edged and black unless there are reflective areas near the subject to bounce some light into the shadows. The sun on a clear day is another source of direct light. Although the sun is large in actual size, it is so far away that it occupies only a small area of the sky and casts sharp, dark shadows. It does not cast direct light when its rays are scattered in many directions by clouds or other atmospheric matter—its light is then directional-dif- fused, or even fully diffused.
Degree of Diffusion: From Hard to Soft Light Diffused light scatters onto the subject from many directions. It shows little or no directionality. Shadows, if they are present at all, are relatively light. Shadow edges are indistinct, and subjects seem surrounded by light. Sources of diffused light are broad compared to the size of the subject—a heavily overcast sky, for example, where the sun’s rays are completely scattered and the entire sky becomes the source of light. Fully diffused light indoors would require a very large, diffused light source close to the subject, plus reflectors or fill lights to fur- ther open the shadows. Tenting is one way of fully diffusing light.
308 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
FIGURE 21.1 Direct light has hard-edged shadows.
Directional-diffused light is partially direct with some diffused or scattered rays (see Figure 21.2). It appears to come from a definite direction and creates distinct shad- ows, but with edges that are softer than those of direct light. The shadow edges change smoothly from light to dark, and the shadows tend to have visible detail.
CHAPTER 21 LIGHTING 309
FIGURE 21.2 Directional- diffused light combines the qualities of direct and dif- fused light. Shadows are visible, but not as prominent as in direct light.
Sources of directional-diffused light are relatively broad. Indoors, windows or door- ways are sources when sunlight bounces in from outdoors rather than shining directly into the room. Floodlights used relatively close to the subject are also sources; their light is even more diffused if directed first at a reflector and bounced onto the subject or if partially scattered by a diffusion screen placed in front of the light. Outdoors, the usually direct light from the sun is broadened on a slightly hazy day, when the sun’s rays are partially scattered and the surrounding sky becomes a more important part of the light source. Bright sunlight can also produce direc- tional-diffused light when it shines on a reflective surface such as concrete, and then bounces onto a subject shaded from direct rays by a tree or nearby building. Fully diffused light provides an even, soft illumination (see Figure 21.3). Here, the light is coming from above, as can be seen from the somewhat brighter cheeks, but light is also bouncing in from both sides and, to some extent, from below. An over- cast day or a shaded area commonly has diffused light.
Available Light: Outdoors What kind of light will you find when you photograph in available light (the light that already exists in a scene)? It may be any of the lighting situations discussed in this chapter. Stop for a moment before you begin to photograph to see how the light affects the subject and to decide whether you want to change your position, your subject’s position, or the light itself. A clear, sunny day creates bright highlights and dark, hard-edged shadows (see Figure 21.4). On a sunny day, take a look at the direction from which the light is coming. You might want to move the subject or move around it yourself so the light better reveals the subject’s shape or texture as seen by the camera. If you are rela- tively close to your subject (for example, when making a portrait), you might want to lighten the shadows by adding fill light or by taking the person out of the sun and into the shade, where the light is not so contrasty. You can’t change light out- doors, but you can at least observe it and work with it. On an overcast day (at dusk, or in the shade), the light will be diffused and soft (see Figure 21.5). This is a revealing light that illuminates all parts of the scene. It can be a beautiful light for portraits, gently modeling the planes of the face.
310 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
FIGURE 21.3 Fully diffused light.
CHAPTER 21 LIGHTING 311
FIGURE 21.4 Direct light out- doors can pro- duce prominent shadows, so it is important to notice how such light is striking a subject.
FIGURE 21.5 Diffused light outdoors, such as in the shade of a building, is soft and reveal- ing.
The light changes as the time of day changes. The sun gets higher and then lower in the sky, affecting the direction in which shadows fall. If the day is sunny, many pho- tographers prefer to work in the early morning or late afternoon, because when the sun is close to the horizon, it casts long shadows and rakes across the surface of objects, increasing the sense of texture and volume.
Available Light: Indoors Available light indoorscan be contrasty or flat, depending on the source of light. Near a lamp or window, especially if there are not many in the room, the light is directional, with bright areas fading off quickly into shadow (see Figure 21.6). The contrast between light and dark is often so great that you can keep details in high- lights or shadows, but not in both. If, however, there are many light fixtures, the light can be softly diffused, illuminating all parts of the scene (see Figure 21.7). When shooting indoors, expose for the most important parts of the picture. The eye adapts easily to variations in light; you can glance at a light area and then quickly see detail in a nearby dark area. Howev
Multiple Printers: About Paper There may be more than one printer connected to a computer. Because the color gamut database (pro- file) for each printer is different, your image-editing software must be told which printer’s profile to use. In Adobe Photoshop, a list of available profiles can be viewed by choosing Edit, Color Settings, Working Spaces, CMYK. Choose File, Color Settings, CMYK Setup, CMYK Model, ICC to select the printer profile (see Figure 20.17). Select the name of your printer and the type of paper that the printer is using (glossy or matte, for example). Paper makes a difference in how your prints look. Different brands of paper react differently to ink or dyes. Inkjet papers produce the greatest amount of variation because ink seeps into the paper in differ- ent degrees. In general, papers that absorb less ink produce more brilliantly saturated colors and deeper tones. This is why all photo-quality inkjet papers are coated with a moisture-resistant white substance. Glossy paper gives rich dark tones, just as glossy darkroom paper gives tones with greater depth. Ordinary copier paper produces muted colors and dull tones because the ink soaks in freely; it may even bleed through to the other side.
CHAPTER 20 COLOR THEORY 305
To work in CMYK mode select Image, Mode, CMYK Color. Editing in CMYK has certain advantages. Even if your computer doesn’t have a com- plete color management system, no out-of-gamut colors are shown on the monitor in CMYK mode. CMYK mode prohibits the moni- tor from displaying any color that the printer cannot reproduce.
FIGURE 20.17 CMYK Setup.
Choosing the wrong paper can reduce the effectiveness of color management sys- tems. At this time, most printer manufacturers supply color management data (pro- files) only for the papers they sell. If you print on another brand of paper the color management software may not have the data profile it needs to match the monitor and the printer.
306 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
The Absolute Minimum Digital cameras and computer monitors use the additive color process. Color film and inkjet printers use the subtractive color process, which relies on variations of cyan, magenta, and yellow inks. Follow these steps when working with color onscreen and in print: ■ Color negative film and slide film are sensitive to red, green, and blue light, but form their complement (cyan, magenta, yellow) during development. ■ You can save an adjustment layer as a settings file that can be loaded into other images when you are ready to print. This is a poor man’s color calibra- tion method. ■ Select View, Gamut Warning in Photoshop to see which colors in the image won’t print on your printer. You must have the correct printer profile installed to use this command successfully. ■ You can adjust gamut issues by desaturating areas that are out of the gamut. Choose Select, Color Range and then select the out-of-gamut colors.
21In this chapter • Direct Versus Diffused Light • Using Available Light • Using Artificial Light
Lighting
Lighting is the most important part of photography. Without light, you would not have an image. Variations of light create brightness and con- trast, and both create good images. Distinct combinations of light cre- ate the most interesting pictures.
An important characteristic of lighting is its degree of diffusion, which can range from contrasty and hard-edged to soft and evenly diffused. When people refer to the “quality” of light, they usually mean its degree of diffusion.
Direct light creates hard-edged, dark shadows (see Figure 21.1). It is specular: its rays are parallel (or nearly so), striking the subject from one direction. The smaller the light (relative to the size of the subject) or the farther the light is from the subject, the sharper and darker the shad- ows will be. The sharpest shadows are created by a point source, a light small enough or far enough away that its actual size is irrelevant.
A spotlight is one source of direct light. Its diameter is small, and it often has a built- in lens to focus the light even more directly. If you think of a performer on stage in a single spotlight, you can imagine an extreme case of direct light: the lit areas are very light, and the shadows are hard-edged and black unless there are reflective areas near the subject to bounce some light into the shadows. The sun on a clear day is another source of direct light. Although the sun is large in actual size, it is so far away that it occupies only a small area of the sky and casts sharp, dark shadows. It does not cast direct light when its rays are scattered in many directions by clouds or other atmospheric matter—its light is then directional-dif- fused, or even fully diffused.
Degree of Diffusion: From Hard to Soft Light Diffused light scatters onto the subject from many directions. It shows little or no directionality. Shadows, if they are present at all, are relatively light. Shadow edges are indistinct, and subjects seem surrounded by light. Sources of diffused light are broad compared to the size of the subject—a heavily overcast sky, for example, where the sun’s rays are completely scattered and the entire sky becomes the source of light. Fully diffused light indoors would require a very large, diffused light source close to the subject, plus reflectors or fill lights to fur- ther open the shadows. Tenting is one way of fully diffusing light.
308 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
FIGURE 21.1 Direct light has hard-edged shadows.
Directional-diffused light is partially direct with some diffused or scattered rays (see Figure 21.2). It appears to come from a definite direction and creates distinct shad- ows, but with edges that are softer than those of direct light. The shadow edges change smoothly from light to dark, and the shadows tend to have visible detail.
CHAPTER 21 LIGHTING 309
FIGURE 21.2 Directional- diffused light combines the qualities of direct and dif- fused light. Shadows are visible, but not as prominent as in direct light.
Sources of directional-diffused light are relatively broad. Indoors, windows or door- ways are sources when sunlight bounces in from outdoors rather than shining directly into the room. Floodlights used relatively close to the subject are also sources; their light is even more diffused if directed first at a reflector and bounced onto the subject or if partially scattered by a diffusion screen placed in front of the light. Outdoors, the usually direct light from the sun is broadened on a slightly hazy day, when the sun’s rays are partially scattered and the surrounding sky becomes a more important part of the light source. Bright sunlight can also produce direc- tional-diffused light when it shines on a reflective surface such as concrete, and then bounces onto a subject shaded from direct rays by a tree or nearby building. Fully diffused light provides an even, soft illumination (see Figure 21.3). Here, the light is coming from above, as can be seen from the somewhat brighter cheeks, but light is also bouncing in from both sides and, to some extent, from below. An over- cast day or a shaded area commonly has diffused light.
Available Light: Outdoors What kind of light will you find when you photograph in available light (the light that already exists in a scene)? It may be any of the lighting situations discussed in this chapter. Stop for a moment before you begin to photograph to see how the light affects the subject and to decide whether you want to change your position, your subject’s position, or the light itself. A clear, sunny day creates bright highlights and dark, hard-edged shadows (see Figure 21.4). On a sunny day, take a look at the direction from which the light is coming. You might want to move the subject or move around it yourself so the light better reveals the subject’s shape or texture as seen by the camera. If you are rela- tively close to your subject (for example, when making a portrait), you might want to lighten the shadows by adding fill light or by taking the person out of the sun and into the shade, where the light is not so contrasty. You can’t change light out- doors, but you can at least observe it and work with it. On an overcast day (at dusk, or in the shade), the light will be diffused and soft (see Figure 21.5). This is a revealing light that illuminates all parts of the scene. It can be a beautiful light for portraits, gently modeling the planes of the face.
310 ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
FIGURE 21.3 Fully diffused light.
CHAPTER 21 LIGHTING 311
FIGURE 21.4 Direct light out- doors can pro- duce prominent shadows, so it is important to notice how such light is striking a subject.
FIGURE 21.5 Diffused light outdoors, such as in the shade of a building, is soft and reveal- ing.
The light changes as the time of day changes. The sun gets higher and then lower in the sky, affecting the direction in which shadows fall. If the day is sunny, many pho- tographers prefer to work in the early morning or late afternoon, because when the sun is close to the horizon, it casts long shadows and rakes across the surface of objects, increasing the sense of texture and volume.
Available Light: Indoors Available light indoorscan be contrasty or flat, depending on the source of light. Near a lamp or window, especially if there are not many in the room, the light is directional, with bright areas fading off quickly into shadow (see Figure 21.6). The contrast between light and dark is often so great that you can keep details in high- lights or shadows, but not in both. If, however, there are many light fixtures, the light can be softly diffused, illuminating all parts of the scene (see Figure 21.7). When shooting indoors, expose for the most important parts of the picture. The eye adapts easily to variations in light; you can glance at a light area and then quickly see detail in a nearby dark area. Howev
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