after a few more attempts, i decided to let myself go and give up the fight. l took a deep breath. the next wave took me down and forward. i hit the bottom with my back. i rolled over, hit my head, and after what seemed the longest minute of my life, l found myself lying in a foot of water. i scramble out of the water and onto the beach. l'd got out, but i had lost my mask, snorkel and one fin. my whole body was sore, as if a gang of boxers had punched me viciously. i sat on the beach,
breathless, watching the sea and feeling lucky to be alive.
i walked back home slowly, ears down like a beaten dog.