satisfying thee strict quality quidelines of the seafood market in japan isn't easy, however. after extracting the gonads. workers must group them according to a list of tough criteria : color, quality, size, shape, body and fullness. the reproductive organs are the same in both male and female urchins, mecham said. workers must also pack them neatly on small wooden trays, with straightliness and no holes. presentation is everthing. "a lot of people say the japanese eat thier food with their eyes," mecham said. "they are very quality-oriented. you have to tailor your product to their needs, and they're pretty finicky.