Soon after leaving Sarajevo, Mustafa and I entered a pine and hardwood forest alive with wildflowers and dense, verdant growth. We passed through Babin Do, the Olympic ski resort where the United Nations had one of its bases during the war. In 1984, Mustafa told me, these were much happier times; the mountains near Sarajevo were the site of the Winter Olympics, including the massif that was our destination, Bjelašnica Mountain.