In the South of Thailand, it seems the dressing is saltier and more fishy. I grew up with my mom’s version which tastes very much like the Khao Yam dressing you’d find in Bangkok. It’s much, much less fishy, slightly more tangy, and quite a bit sweeter. Mom infused the budu-based dressing with fresh herbs just enough to somewhat ameliorate the extreme fishiness of the budu, yet not so much that the end result renders the presence of the Southern fish sauce pointless and the deaths of the little fish in vain.
The dressing is very concentrated and a little goes a long way. Its flavor is intense enough and when combined with the fresh herbs in the salad components, no further embellishment is needed. Then again, I’m Thai, so sometimes I add a bit of dried red pepper flakes to the salad. I just can’t help it, I guess.
I love my mother’s Khao Yam dressing, and even though it may not be exactly how it’s made in the South, I love her version too much to switch to any other any time soon.