Cabana stripes are off the table at Jacquemus this season. Sure, the lookbook was shot on the beach, but take a closer gander; that's a nuclear reactor in the distance. Simon Porte Jacquemus hasn't gone bleak on us, but there was a seriousness to his clothes for Pre-Fall. At an appointment in his Third Arrondissement atelier, he said, "I wanted to come back to pure fashion. I felt like starting again, already I've done a little circle." Meaning, the bright yellow and royal blue stripes of Spring might be as upbeat as he's apt to get for a while. No matter, the navy, charcoal, and white he used here are better suited to the off-kilter tailoring he prefers. His suit jacket was as asymmetrical as the tailleurs that opened Atelier Versace last night—now there's a brand nobody has mentioned in the same sentence as Jacquemus until now. Likewise, there was something surprisingly soigné about the off-shoulder proportion of a white cotton poplin button-down topped by a ribbed knit tube. The circles Jacquemus has used as a decorative motif for the last two collections reappeared here, but they were a bit more tentative than they have been previously. We bet he's moved on to something new by the time he shows Fall in early March.