Lacklustre Germain Chandons aside, cocktails mostly hit the mark. Vodka drinker or otherwise, the Bellevue St Sour – it’s a berry and elderflower elixir laced with Patron, lemon and ginger – is spot-on for tasty refreshment. Being served an excellent, deeply complex Smoked Cherry Sazerac with ice cubes in a separate tumbler (all the better to manage your drink’s dilution, my dear) suggests an understanding of booze culture not immediately apparent when being served by, at-times, stiff bar staff.