Japan’s hot springs are often found in natural settings, among mountains, along the seashore or in narrow valleys, which add appeal to the bathing experience. The scenery reflecting the passing of the seasons—cherry blossoms in spring, the vibrant green of new leaves in summer, colorful autumn foliage, snowscapes in winter—is all the more enjoyable when viewed from a warm, relaxing bath. And open-air baths—roten-buro—offer possibly the greatest experience of all hot spring bathing, with nothing coming between you and the sunrise, sunset or dark night skies dotted with countless twinkling stars. Gunma’s Shiriyaki Onsen features a hand-dug open-air bath on a riverbank, an unusual opportunity to get truly close to nature.
And it isn’t just humans who are attracted to open-air bathing. At Jigokudani Onsen in Nagano, Japanese macaques can be observed taking a dip in the open-air baths, their facial expressions vividly conveying just how relaxed they feel. This unusual sight draws many visitors, but the baths here are reserved for the wildlife.
In the best-known onsen resort areas, little towns with restaurants, souvenir shops and tourist attractions have sprung up around the main hot springs facilities and feature a distinctive atmosphere. Among the most famous spa resorts are Hakone Onsen in Kanagawa and Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma, which are very popular for relaxation and sightseeing among Japanese and overseas visitors alike.
In spa resorts, it’s customary for overnight guests to don the yukata (cotton kimono) and geta (traditional clogs) provided by their hotel or inn for a stroll around the town—try that for an authentic hot spring experience! And your visit won’t be complete unless you sample the hard-boiled eggs (boiled in the hot spring waters) or the manju (bean paste dumplings) sold at shops along your walk. Some spa resorts also offer hand or foot spas, which can be a good first encounter with an onsen since they don’t require complete disrobing.