ut don’t presume that gourmet cuisine means a formal dining experience. At L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok, most of the seats surround a large, open kitchen which makes the restaurant feel alive: staff mix and mingle on the opposite side of the counter, asking questions, explaining small points about the food, and generally creating a vibrant ambiance which adds credence to the ‘L’Atelier’ in the name (meaning ‘workshop’ in French). It is all very modern and chic, just like the interior design, which impresses from the moment the lift doors open and a glossy combination of scarlet, black and dark wood envelops you.
Joel Robuchon’s style of cooking is characterised by rich flavours and distinct tastes that seem to shine through the complex arrangements on the plate. Take, for example, the Rosavalt potato salad with rolled cylinders of foie gras terrine, rocket salad and large shavings of white truffle – a light vinaigrette adds lighter notes to this entrée but it is nevertheless dominated by strong, earthy flavours (1,800 baht).