The good news is that public awareness is growing. Anton Edelmann used to see customers furiously shaking salt over food he had meticulously flavoured and seasoned in his kitchen. “That’s gone nowadays. People are more aware of the fact they should not eat too much salt, but they don’t know how to reduce it. In an ideal world I would remove the salt cellar from the table, but I can’t do that. We all eat more processed food, and that’s where the problem comes in. You can’t control how much salt you’re eating. How can you fight this avalanche of processed foods? People say they have less time so they cook less and buy more ready-meals. I think they should work an hour less and go home and cook proper food.”