oughly half the menu is traditional fare, from the flatbread called naan to the thick, creamy spinach with yogurt cheese called saag paneer. The other half focuses on modern dishes (lamb saag, shrimp curry) and what [Sangeeta Yadav] calls "avant garde": sea bass with sauteed spinach and a sauce of coconut, sesame and cashews. In these, what's usually served within a curry -- a gravy, of sorts -- becomes the main attraction on a platter, and the flavors of the curry appear as an accompanying sauce instead.
Our sea bass was exquisite, but so was a simple saag paneer, as well as an appetizer of paneer (that soft cheese) spiced with cumin, mango powder and tamarind sauce and served with a few mixed greens and spicy strawberry dressing. The classic samosa is made here as a beggar's purse. The crackery complimentary poppadum comes in whole curved sheets, with a tray of sauces: tamarind, the simple yogurt- cucumber sauce known as raita, and mango chutney that's divine.