and secret fulfillment.”
Takada liked the idea that Maier, who toiled undiscovered for decades, “didn’t need anyone’s affirmation to value herself.” So sprinkled through the collection are “tiny surprises” that only the wearer might notice: a structured blazer pleated so that, in motion, a flash of nude crepe is revealed; a pinstripe constructed from raffia; and black wool trousers with a sheer grid, created using dévoré, which revealed a minuscule square of skin. “For the woman who buys this, it’s something she can enjoy just for herself,” said Takada.
Shirting remains the brand’s bread and butter, and this season’s pièce de résistance, according to Takada, is a whimsical take on the classic: a blue oxford shirt with a fountain of delicate feathers sprouting from the chest. The feathers had been carefully hand-stitched in India so that they would hover over the fabric like a little cloud. “I had this idea of someone who works in the corporate world showing up in this shirt—it’s in the dress code, but also not in the dress code,” said Takada. “It’s that rebellion and irony. It reminds me of how Vivian took photos of regular people, but there was always a narrative.”