A blush-pink feather headdress? A sliver of bias-cut silk slip—with a train? In turquoise? "That's teal!" corrected the designer, Gareth Pugh, laughing. But really, it was closer to turquoise, with nail varnish on the models to match. The most un-Gareth Pugh color ever was utilized here, to startling effect, in the opening look of the show: a twisted combination of showgirl, drag queen, and the Pugh we know.