Haute couture is inherently a push-and-pull of old and new: old techniques, new materials; old maison, new designer; old silhouettes, new interpretations. Today, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren transformed their old collections into dramatic new clothes. This wasn’t an ordinary exercise in upcycling, nor a trip down memory lane. Rather, it relied on varying proportions of everyday base layers handwoven with leftover fabrics, boosted with swirling tulle volumes and embellished with heaps of hardware and buttons. Essentially, the designers performed a wondrous feat of conflating rag rugs with riches. Looks that grew from old army jackets and vintage jeans could be described as surplus-plus-plus. During a walk-through the designers pointed to a jacket that featured scraps from Hyères, their first collection dating back to 1993. Another top was lined with crimson pile from their Red Carpet collection and the wax-dyed floral fabrics from Spring ’15 made an encore as strips of a skirt, among other applications. Some of the pants originated from their retired Monsieur men’s label. The atelier made such work out of all these remnants that the result hovered between art and artisanal—was it arte povera tweed or textile pointillism?