Kane managed to confound skeptics who wondered whether he¿d be able to move on from the ultrayoung, ruffly neon-and-nylon-lace collection with which he made his mark last summer. He did, with a giant step into tough black and oxblood leather, sumptuous burnt orange, scarlet, and emerald velvet (tear down the drapes!) and an intensely creative sequence of work that patched fluid Versace-esque crystal mesh over a base of matte-black knit.