Waves were breaking all around me without respite. I tried to bodysurf one to shore, but it collapsed suddenly and took me down as though someone had turned the gravity dial up ten-fold. When I surfaced to take a breath, I turned around and a second wave hit me as hard, taking me down again. I hit the sandy bottom. I pushed myself up but once again, waves were coming and not allowing me to rest and breathe. I was caught in the surf zone, with waves pushing me out and a rip current pulling me in, unable to reach the beach.