After returning home I rescued an empurpled one from the reject bin in the cooler, and gave it a taste test alongside a Snow Crown whose florets were still snowy. I put them side by side in a roasting pan surrounded with freshly dug new potatoes and a handful of garlic scapes — those wonderful loopy stems we’d removed from our hardneck garlic plants a while back, still tender and green in the fridge. I melted a stick of butter and poured it over all the vegetables, relishing how the butter sank into all the little entry points in the “bad” cauliflower’s ricey dome.