After a few more attempts, I decided to let myself go, and give up the fight. I took a deep breath. The next wave took me down, and forward. I hit the bottom with my back, I rolled over, hit my head, and after what seemed the longest minute of my life, I found myself lying in a foot of water. I scrambled out of the water and onto the beach. I’d got out, but I had lost my mask, snorkel, and one fin. My whole body was sore, as if a gang of boxers had punched me viciously. I sat on the beach, breathless, watching the sea and feeling lucky to be alive. I walked back home slowly, ears down like a beaten dog.