One year ago, you noticed that your left hand felt stiff and tender. Over months, the pain worsened and would not go away. A doctor at the hospital diagnosed you with chronic arthritis – an incurable disease – and so you’ve come here: the fetish market in the Akodessewa suburb of Lomé, Togo’s capital city. Like a third of Togolese, you are a follower of voodoo; where conventional medicine fails, it may succeed.