REBELLION THROUGH IRONY AND SARCASM
One cannot say definitely what precisely in the style and manner of the student of fine arts attracted the attention of another genius of Italian fashion - Gianni Versace. Whether the graceful skill and dreaminess or the defiance and rebellion against the boring academic ways of drawing? It is a fact, however, that both in the collections of Versace and in the works of Moschino (when he worked as an independent designer) one can distinctly see the finesse and the sensual Mediterranean beauty, the daring and the courage to blow up the usual notions of elevation and elegance. Many inscriptions and appeals on the windows of Moschino’s boutiques revealed his rebellion, which in some cases relied on subtle irony and in others - on sharp sarcasm. Slogans like “fashion-fashoff” and “Ready to where?” (a pun on the English ready-to-wear, which is a variant of the French prêt-à-porter) were born by his wit. Who lays at the basis of his ironic distance from established designers and fashion houses, and as a whole from the corrupting system of fashion? And didn’t he thus go against himself – didn’t he try to cut the branch he was sitting on? Moschino is convincing proof that in the era of post-modernism, irony and ridicule, parody and verbal collage are the principle means of expression, which help overcome patters, schemes in visual art. It is to his enormous advantage that he used not only the technique of art, but also numerous verbal tricks, direct appeals, inscriptions and adages which raised fashion to the rank of a literary system not only in the interpretation of Roland Bart, but also as topical, social literature. It was precisely Moschino’s arsenal of expression and artistry that helped the style of dressing become immune to the most terrible vices of the world of fashion: conformism, consumer attitude, excessive extravagance and squandering as an end in itself. Everyone can be fashionable in the manner he or she decides, not by following blindly what glossy magazines spew or what shining shop windows appeal to - this is the underlying meaning encoded in nearly all works of Franco Moschino. His rebellion was not against fashion as a means of being original and finding the most adequate style of expression and communication, of identification and enrichment of values, but against the manipulative fashion system which craftily catches its innumerable victims like a spider in its net.
กบฏประชดและประชดประชันOne cannot say definitely what precisely in the style and manner of the student of fine arts attracted the attention of another genius of Italian fashion - Gianni Versace. Whether the graceful skill and dreaminess or the defiance and rebellion against the boring academic ways of drawing? It is a fact, however, that both in the collections of Versace and in the works of Moschino (when he worked as an independent designer) one can distinctly see the finesse and the sensual Mediterranean beauty, the daring and the courage to blow up the usual notions of elevation and elegance. Many inscriptions and appeals on the windows of Moschino’s boutiques revealed his rebellion, which in some cases relied on subtle irony and in others - on sharp sarcasm. Slogans like “fashion-fashoff” and “Ready to where?” (a pun on the English ready-to-wear, which is a variant of the French prêt-à-porter) were born by his wit. Who lays at the basis of his ironic distance from established designers and fashion houses, and as a whole from the corrupting system of fashion? And didn’t he thus go against himself – didn’t he try to cut the branch he was sitting on? Moschino is convincing proof that in the era of post-modernism, irony and ridicule, parody and verbal collage are the principle means of expression, which help overcome patters, schemes in visual art. It is to his enormous advantage that he used not only the technique of art, but also numerous verbal tricks, direct appeals, inscriptions and adages which raised fashion to the rank of a literary system not only in the interpretation of Roland Bart, but also as topical, social literature. It was precisely Moschino’s arsenal of expression and artistry that helped the style of dressing become immune to the most terrible vices of the world of fashion: conformism, consumer attitude, excessive extravagance and squandering as an end in itself. Everyone can be fashionable in the manner he or she decides, not by following blindly what glossy magazines spew or what shining shop windows appeal to - this is the underlying meaning encoded in nearly all works of Franco Moschino. His rebellion was not against fashion as a means of being original and finding the most adequate style of expression and communication, of identification and enrichment of values, but against the manipulative fashion system which craftily catches its innumerable victims like a spider in its net.
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